Category Archives: Travel

The art and practice of wandering

A Bit of Hitching

My time in Europe is up, and it’s time for me to go up to the UK in order to reset my Schengen visa. We’ve spent a lot of money over the last week in Paris, and we’re hoping to … Continue reading

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Paris: Let the Food Begin

The train from Geneva to Paris is old but fast, and fills up quickly with loudly chattering school children on field trip or holiday — several groups of them, each shepherded by a harried-looking schoolteacher no doubt terrified at the … Continue reading

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To Genova, to Geneva

When it finally comes time to leave Napoli, it’s by train at seven thirty in the morning. By this time I’m so nocturnal that it’s easier to just stay up until then, and around six in the morning I say … Continue reading

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City of the Dead

  My last week in Napoli feels like summer, balmy and dry. I’ve found that if I give myself a month or more in a city, I feel like I have all the time in the world, and spend my … Continue reading

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Grit, Grime, and the Best Pizza on Earth

The train from Rome Termini speeds south under blue skies. As we leave the city, a two-thousand-year-old aqueduct parallels the track for a kilometer or two, towering over freshly plowed fields before diverging and receding into the distance. Whatever else … Continue reading

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When it Snows in Rome

All good things must end, and on a Tuesday toward the end of February I pack my bags, say goodbye to my friends in Barcelona, and head for the ferry port. I came into the city by ship, and I … Continue reading

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Getting Introspective

With routine, with structure, with hours of walking every day, comes thinking. I sit and drink coffee and read, or go to a cafe and work. I don’t visit museums or churches. I don’t even make it down to Barcelona’s … Continue reading

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Slowing Down in Barcelona

My last day in Morocco is spent first on the train, headed north to Tangiers, and then making my way further up the coast to the industrial port at Tangier Med. Then the slow monotony of customs, brought to a … Continue reading

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The Heart of Morocco

It’s almost dark by the time my train pulls out of the Tangiers station and heads south into the interior of Morocco. Tangiers rises sharply as we approach its edge, house-lights in terraces along steep hills, and then we’re in … Continue reading

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Into Africa

I leave Granada on a sunny afternoon, bound for Algeciras, on the southern tip of Spain. I change buses in Malaga, and end up sitting next to a pair of travelers, Hamish and Lilu, from Canada and Russia, respectively. Hamish … Continue reading

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