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Category Archives: Travel
The Heart of Morocco
It’s almost dark by the time my train pulls out of the Tangiers station and heads south into the interior of Morocco. Tangiers rises sharply as we approach its edge, house-lights in terraces along steep hills, and then we’re in … Continue reading
Into Africa
I leave Granada on a sunny afternoon, bound for Algeciras, on the southern tip of Spain. I change buses in Malaga, and end up sitting next to a pair of travelers, Hamish and Lilu, from Canada and Russia, respectively. Hamish … Continue reading
Music and the Moors
Initially, my plan after Madrid is to head down to Córdoba, the historic capital of the Caliphate of Córdoba, which ruled the Islamic state of Al-Andalus for just over a hundred years in the tenth and eleventh centuries. But despite … Continue reading
From the Poor House to the Party Hostel
We’re turned out at seven in the morning from the Cruz Roja auberge in Catalayud, but I’m well rested, having gone to sleep at ten the night before. There’s frost on the ground and an icy mist in the air … Continue reading
Walking through Aragon
It takes perhaps five minutes to walk the length of the little village of Morata de Jalon, where I leave the train, and beyond that it’s a long ribbon of road through rocky hills, crossing and re-crossing a shallow river, … Continue reading
Out of Cash in Zaragoza
From San Sebastián I head across a wide green landscape marked here and there by rocky ridges raising above the surrounding forest that cast ever longer shadows as the sun sets. By the time I get to Zaragoza, it’s already … Continue reading
To the Heart of Basque Cooking
The bus to San Sebastián takes a little over two hours. As we head east, we leave the coast temporarily and rise up through low craggy mountains, sparsely forested and gray with the underlying rock that’s so thinly veiled with … Continue reading
South to Sun and Spain
The ferry from Portsmouth is, as it turns out, a “mini-cruise,” a way for upper-middle-class upper-middle-age English couples to get away from the din of England by getting into the din of a smallish ship full of English people. I, … Continue reading
Farewell, England
I have a few hours in London before catching my train to Portsmouth, and meet up with Shreya for lunch at a restaurant that manages to try to be British, American, French and Spanish all at the same time, but … Continue reading
Oxford and the Arab Spring
A few hours after saying goodbye to Kate at the Victoria Coach Station in London, I catch the local bus to Oxford. A friend of mine from my 2009 trip to Turkey, Monica, has since managed to become a Rhodes … Continue reading